Day 4 and 5 - Jarrahdale to Dwellingup

Restocked with provisions and buoyed by a deep wine induced slumber we are back on the trail at dawn for Day 4.  We bounce and skid our way down the steep rocky incline to Pipehead Dam, and then heave ourselves up a seemingly never-ending pea gravel hill climb.  Thank god for cleats! Halfway up with flies hitching a ride to every surface of my body, the only thought that springs to mind is, “Why?” After what seems like an eternity, we are at the top.  Thoughts of the flies, my throbbing thighs and the audible thud of my heart are quickly lost to our first expansive vista over rolling hills out towards the coast.  Stunning!

Further on, we finally cross paths with a pair of cyclists heading north who have brought their bikes all the way from Canberra.  They will prove to be the only other cyclists we meet on the trail over the course of our 10 days in the saddle.Lunch finds us at Dandalup Picnic Area at the base of North Dandalup Reservoir.  Its shady trees, swimming hole and grassy picnic area with free gas barbecues make it a popular year-round destination. We strip off and plunge into the crystal clear refreshing water.  Minutes later we are caught skinny dipping by a truck load of dam workers who have stopped for lunch.  I blush and gingerly slip back into my togs. 

  

At dusk perched on the rocks beside Dandalup Campsite, with smoked oysters, local cheese and a tumbler of Millbrook red we toast the expansive coastal views and our days 34 kilometre effort.


In the morning 4 kilometres into our journey in misty light, the trail takes us through Whitakers Mill, which closed in 1976 owing to a decline in good wood sources.  The light drizzle intensifies the smell of pine which towers above us and crunches under our wheels. Black cockatoos circle and screech, flashing their distinctive orange tails. I feel certain I can hear a chopping axe behind the long forgotten decaying pile of timber. 
 

Despite the lack of shelter and facilities, we proclaim Oakley Dam our favourite.  It’s like an oversized resort-style infinity pool.  The surrounding flora paved with bush rocks is akin to a meticulously landscaped native garden.  A 500 metre walk to the lookout affords views of the mine below and beyond, the coast stretches endlessly north-south.  This is WA. 

The drizzle increases in intensity throughout the day, upsetting plans of tackling the MTB single track near the highly regarded Marrinup Campsite.  Despite donning our waterproofs, we are soaked when we finally pull into Dwellingup.  The pub is a buzz with transient mine workers.  We grab the only available room and dry our gear out in front of the fires. 


That night, over a pint of ‘Little Creatures’ and a surprisingly tasty bowl of mussels, we relay stories of our adventure thus far to a couple who are heading north in the morning to ride the trail from Jarrahdale. Tackling small sections of the trail seems to be the fashionable weekend pastime of cycling enthusiasts in these parts.  Amazing cycling and camping facilities, cheap flights to Asia, delicious local wines, awesome waves and kite surfing conditions lure and we briefly entertain the thought of relocating. 

A Welcome Break